There's a story on the front of today's Bangkok Post newspaper, headlined 'King voices concern about haze'.  His Majesty is not actually referring to the capital, but to an area in the north of the country where the paper says air quality is poised to reach danger levels.  As a result 200,000 face masks are being sent to the region, and if the situation doesn't improve it's reported that the King will order artificial rain-making to take place.  When I first read this I felt there was a touch of King Canute about it, but one questions the King at one's peril in these parts; he is a highly revered figure, so if he's ordering it to rain, believe me there'll be a shower or two.

The situation in Bangkok is actually a lot better since the terrific Skytrain came along.  Opened in late 1999 (BBC Online coverage of opening) the elevated trains seem to glide effortlessly above the city's streets, and they're a wonderful respite from the heat too with top-notch air-conditioning.  I saw a sign on one today that's definitely a first; 'prepare to give up this seat for a monk'.  I sat in it, hoping that I'd be required to do the decent thing, but no monk got on board.

If few people seem to sleep here, then here's one figure who's been lying down for many a year.  This is the magnificent reclining Buddha of the Wat Pho temple, measuring 46 metres in length and gilded with gold leaf.  The temple's rambling grounds are truly inspiring, even in temperatures in the high thirties, and I'm so glad I rebuffed the man outside who tried to convince me the place was closed for a religious ceremony and that I ought to follow his tourist advice instead.  It was only after I politely walked off that I read a passage in the Lonely Planet 'Bangkok Encounter' which said, and I quote, "rip-off artists prowl this tourist strip; ignore any stranger who approaches you about an attraction being closed".

I mentioned 'smiles' in the headline because this is a city where people are seriously welcoming.  Generous and unselfish help is offered at almost every turn; in my hotel I'm slowly getting used to the staff who push their hands together as if a prayer is being said and then bow their heads, all just to say hello.  Even the men who tried to persuade me that one of their 'ladies' should give me a massage in Patpong yesterday evening did so with a smile.  Photographs were waved under my nose, so that I could appreciate the 'gifts' of the women in question.  Gifted they were, I'm sure, but the photos suggested their gifts lay in parts other than their hands.

A word, finally, about the third and last leg of my train journey - the section between Butterworth, adjacent to Penang on the Malaysian mainland, and Bangkok.  I was critical but I hope fair about legs one and two, but I've nothing but praise for the final overnight travelling experience.  The carriage, pictured above, was very well designed to allow for seating during the daytime and sleeping at night, and a choice of meals was offered for both dinner and the following morning's breakfast. 

And hats off to the staff, who were extra careful with a small item of luggage belonging to the woman sitting across the gangway from me.  She and her companion spoke in Thai so I had no idea what the conversation was about, but opposite me was a man from Hong Kong who I chatted to at some length after breakfast.  "You know what they're discussing with the staff, don't you?" he said at one stage.  "No," I replied. "They're carrying the ashes of a recently deceased relative back to her home, so they're anxious that the box is well looked after."  I'm pleased to report everything and everyone arrived safely.